Some see it as the last ‘classic’ VW transporter, and there’s no question about it – the T4’s scalpel sharp, boxy styling is trademark old school Volkswagen, albeit it with a slightly more modern twist. Either way, there’s plenty to commend the hard as nails T4 produced from 1990 to 2003 – so whether you want one as a weekend plaything, a daily driver or a cool toy to modify to your heart’s content, you won’t be disappointed. Here’s our at-a-glance guide to buying one…
Body types
It was available in either short or long wheelbase in a variety of different body types”
- Pick up, either double (based on the LWB chassis, called ‘Doka’) or single cab.
- Van, panel (no windows), Kombi (just a single window each side), Caravelle or Multivan (windows all round).
- Roof options – standard, high top, elevating.
- Doors, either single or ‘barn door’ at the rear and single or double side sliding doors.
- Nose, either long or short, the long nose appearing in 1996. Known sometimes as T4a and T4b respectively.
- Syncro four-wheel drive model offered with 2.4D, 2.5 petrol and 2.5TDi engines.
Body checks
T4 rust-proofing was a lot more effective than on the T25 so serious corrosion shouldn’t be a major issue, and things improved further still after the 1996 facelift. However, these are the T4’s worst hit areas:
- Base of the screen, the wheel arches, lower sills, the bottom of the sliding door inside and out and the metal around the fuel filler.
- Inner wings, chassis and floorpan. Rust can also take hold around the rear cross member, just above where the rear springs locate.
- Check door seals are watertight, especially around the bottom of the tailgate.
- The sliding mechanism for the side door should be smooth and even; if the top rail is worn, the door can drop out so lift the door up and down to check for any play. It should also sit flush when closed, but there is some adjustment to get it fitting properly.
Engines
Petrol engines included: 1.8, 2.0, 2.5 five-cylinder and the 2.8 VR6 which was also available in 170bhp 24-valve guise from 2000. The latter is lovely but thirsty, unless you get one that’s had an LPG conversion.
Diesels: 1.9D, 1.9TD and the 2.4D along with range toping 2.5 five-cylinder TDi units which initially produced 88bhp (with with blue ‘i’ badge), rising to 102 from 1995 (here with the ‘i’ in silver) and a stonking 151bhp from 1998, but only on German vans with the ‘i’ appearing in red.
Most desirable engine is the 2.5TDi – it’s pokey and will do 40mpg. It’s also relatively easy to convert the 88bhp unit to 102 by fitting a top mounted intercooler and even 150bhp is within reach with tuning. The 68bhp 1.9TD is also a good bet – it’s not that quick but it’s tuneable and doesn’t command as high price as the 2.5. Avoid the non-turbo diesels if you can.
Watch for:
- 2.4D head gasket issues.
- TDI timing belt replacement. Because the belt drives the water pump as well, if the pump fails it will take out the belt at the same time. Make replacing the cambelt and water pump the first job you do.
- Dodgy synchros or cars that jump out of gear.
- Because the T4 has a hydraulic clutch, check for fluid leaks around the pedal box. Check there’s no cracks in the pedal box itself where the clutch master cylinder mounts as this is another T4 foible.
Electrics/Interior
Make sure everything works as it should because trying to diagnose electrical niggles can be time consuming and problems expensive to put right.
- Westy tank level sensors are prone to failure and are expensive to replace.
- Instrument clusters have a voltage regulator that can play up and cause erratic temp/fuel readings, though later models seem to suffer less.
- Check the wiring into driver’s door which can chafe and fail, and that the central locking window regulators (if fitted) are all behaving themselves.
- Watch for faulty brake light switches and duff ignition switches.
Suspension/steering
Uneven tyre wear indicates tired suspension bushes or a van that’s had its geometry put out by a smash.
- Knocks or clunks will usually indicate worn bottom balljoints, drop links or anti-roll bar bushes.
- Noises from the rear is most likely the trailing arm bushes.
- Power steering was an option initially, although later vans should have it. Listen for groans or other nasty noises as you turn from lock to lock and check the fluid to ensure there’s been no leaks.
Brakes
There’s no real brake problems to beware of on the T4, so just do all the normal brake checks, namely:
- Eyeball the hydraulic pipes/hoses and make sure there’s no judder from warped discs.
- If a van pulls up to one side, suspect a seized rear caliper.
- Make sure the handbrake is effective; the cable can stick in its outer sleeve if a van’s been left standing for a while.
What to pay?
- Entry level = £2,000-£3,000 (panel van), £5,000 is the starting price for a half decent 2.5TDi.
- Camper conversions from the likes of Autosleeper will begin at £10,000, while really nice conversions from Reimo or Westfalia with a 2.5TDi under the bonnet could make as much as £12-£15k.
Top tips
- Buy a well-maintained works van which has been kept mechanically sound.
- Avoid heavily modified T4s – ones that have been ‘got at’.
- Rotten T4s only make sense if you can do all the work yourself.
- 2.5TDi is nice but there will be a premium to pay and because of its extra complexity. If things go wrong it will be more expensive to fix. With that in mind the 1.9TD is perhaps a better bet, and it can also be run on veg/bio fuel which could be a consideration.
- Bodywork condition is all important. A really straight, original T4 is likely to appreciate in years to come.
Ian
For our full T4 Buying Guide, click here.
The opinions expressed here are the personal opinions of the author and do not necessarily represent the views and opinions of VW Heritage.
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88bhp tdi has engine bay wiring loom issue.
Rust is getting in
Front wheel arches the rear area where it’s a box section the sealer lifts and rust there.
Wheel arches from stone chips
Rust on n/s inner sill by front part of sliding door panel (by fuel tank)
Front panels are rusting
Front outriggers of chassis extensions. from legs to outer edge of front panel.
Thanks Andy for your additional tips on where to check.
I have a 1993 Eurovan MV which I purchased brand new ( 2.5 AT)…it now has just turned 100,000 K miles and still runs well but has seemed to have lost its’ heat. The engine warms up normally but the heater blower no longer gives hot air into the cabin. I am told that there is a door or flap inside the duct work (under the dash) which looses its material causing it to act as though it is not opening or closing. Any advise or information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks =JAH JCC
Thanks for your help
Hi, I’m due to veiw a 1994 T4 with a 2.4 diesel engine. It’s a westfalia high top camper and looks in great condition.
In your article you advise to avoid the 2.4 diesel engine, would you please tell me why?
Thanks muchly Angie
Hi Angela, the 2.4 can suffer from head gasket issues, and as it is non-turbo can feel a bit sluggish, especially with a high top and a full camping interior.
When test driving consider how it will feel once you have it loaded with camping gear, bikes, family, pets etc..
I have just bought a mint condition TW 2001 and had a brand new eco wagon conversion done, for 18000. Van has 50000 on clock. Did I get a good deal and will it hold its value?
T4!
Hi,
Im considering a 1998 t4 syncro with 170k miles… is there anything extra i should ask about/look for with the syncro?
Thank you!
Going to buy a t4 Motorhome 2.4D 25000 miles. Full service history, am I wasting my time because of the engine?
Hi, I’m looking at two almost identical T4’s that are identically priced at £5250
One is a 1992 1.9 petrol engine with 100k converted by Holdsworth Villa.
The other is a 1993 1.9 diesel engine with 138k and in need of a new leisure battery.
Any advice on which to go for?
Thanks
Can these be imported to camifornia if they are 25 years old plus?
Yes. I’ve got one in California
hi,
I have recently brought a T4 1.9 transporter with a converted engine to a 1.9 TdI golf engine.
First of all is this a common upgrade for this vehicle? If so does this come with any common isssues?
My reason for saying this is that my steering fluid has been leaking and after two new steering rack this is still the case. I have documents that say a new golf 1.9 TdI steering pump has been fitting previously and fairly recently before I brought it.
Does anyone know if this could be the problem? Ie could the pump be too powerful for the rack…
I would really appreciate any advice on this matter, as I get the feeling this could cost me loads to resolve and i might not get to the bottom of it still, even with another new steering rack and pump being fitting again.
Thanks
Tom
Hi Tom, I don’t know whether you’ve already had a reply to your question but I’m currently having my 99 1.9TD T4 rebuilt with the fantastic Charlie and the guys in QCS Engines in Wetherby, Yorkshire.
When I’ve been talking to Charlie about different engines and what he’s seen over his 20-30 years of working on T4’s etc. I’ve heard him mention this conversion that you’ve got and he doesn’t rate them very highly because the two engines have different mountings, set-ups etc, they are different engines all together.
These guys are the experts and they know so much about these engines, if they don’t know the answer, they’ll know somebody that does and maybe able to help you with yours.
If you still need answers, email me and I can give you the number. Thank you, Amy
i need a used T4 petrol engine, short frame, four plugs, 2.0. i am from nigeria. i need the price and cost of shipping
Hi. I had a lovely 2.4 NON turbo diesel early caravelle for 5 years. Sold it to a friend with 150k on it, as far as I’m aware it’s still going no dramas apart from a starter motor at 200k
i need turbo t4 five cylinder,american spare,short cabin,how much goes it go for and d cost of shipping it to Nigeria????????waiting for ur resonse,or you can call 08170146977,am Bright..Thanks in advance.
2.8 vr6 T4 97 plate need injector new or used
Any ideas please number 4 has gone down on my caravelle petrol .
Thanks all
darrenkane50@gmail.com thanks
I got a rebuilt t4 1.9 abl engine from qcs engines of Wetherby four years a go and it is sill going strong
If I was you guys I would not go any were else
I have a T4 and I change it to van life and put capsule for LPG for it
I want to know using LPG gas damage engine or No ?
Hey, I dont know if Im late with the reply but we have a t4 2.5i that has had lpg basically all its life and is basically never driven on petrol. 345k km and still going strong like ever. Only issue I have with it is that the injectors are most likely filled with debri to the point that it doesnt want to run on petrol. Im not sure whether its from the fact its always running on lpg or its common with lpg installed models.
Hi everyone I got a t4 1.9 td vw van year 2001. I need a diesel pump can you point me in the right direction for a reconditioned pump or cheap new pump. Or where I could send my pump to be reconditioned where they do a gd job and priced fairly many thanks haydn in wales.
bonjour
je cherche une solution pour changer intégralement le châssis de mon multivan qui est très atteint par la rouille .
Comment faire pour trouver un châssis galvanisé , cela existe pour la 2CV Citroen , pour volkswagen ????
Mon van est de 1997 Type Minibus 1.9 diézel.
Le reste est impeccable
I am considering a T4 that has a 2.5 Syncro Diesel engine. 1999, has done nearly 200k miles. Any particular advice on this engine, please?